Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy Hilfiger launched his own label in New York in 1985, selling a version of American preparatory dress — rugby stripes, flags, oversized logos — that was taken up well outside the world it referenced, particularly by hip-hop in the decade that followed. The company has belonged to PVH since 2010 and operates as a global mass-market brand. Bags are licensed accessories rather than a leather-goods line, and no models are matched in our catalogue. Expect coated canvas and synthetic leather in navy, red and white, with the flag logo used as webbing, plate or jacquard. Very little is full-grain hide, so the comparison is how the coating and the webbing have held up: fraying at the strap edges and peeling at the corners are the common faults.